Sometimes in San Francisco one encounters something called a “hangtown fry.” What is it? It’s a sort of omelet composed of oysters, eggs, and bacon. Some say the hangtown fry, which was served in 19th-century gold mining camps (the oysters were transported in barrels of sea water), is the first true California cuisine. It was an expensive meal, a signal that one had struck a rich vein.

The dish gets its name from Placerville, which was known colloquially as Hangtown because it was the site of a famous hanging of outlaws. A Placerville group known as the “Hangtown Fryers” has tried to promote the dish as the official dish of the state of California.

The dish was popularized by Tadich Grill in San Francisco, established 1849 and still growing strong. On an episode of “No Reservations” Anthony Bourdain ordered a hangtown fry there. He said, “I like this place. This is wonderful. I’m ashamed we don’t have something like this in New York.”